Saturday, July 5, 2014

Day 28 - Rest day in Siena

Piazza del Campo, Siena

We had almost thought we didn't need a rest day, but booked it anyway to spend some time in Siena. But after a few hard days slugging up the Tuscan gravel hillside we are sure glad we booked it in.

Gourmet Picnic with a view

Although yesterday was short, we climbed almost 1000vm offroad in the sun, which sure took it out of us. Walking around the steep city streets it was an easy choice to enjoy the views from our balcony and have a "hotel picnic" once again and get an early night.

After a good nights sleep, although a little warm with no a/c or fan unfortunately. We are staying in a b&b (lupe) just near the city gates which is a nice spot. Breakfast was nice, a relaxed traditional Italian style coffee, juice and cake!

We didn't plan to do too much, walk the streets and check out whatever we came across really. We did want to see the Duomo, and joined the queues 30mins before opening time. Surpisingly we actually got free entry with our pilgrim credentials, which is basically a passport you get stamped along the route to show where you have started and gone.

The entire square is covered in sand for Il Pailo
Standup bars, skul the coffee down

Entering with the throng of eager Americans and tour groups it really was beautiful, Italian churches are just so much more flamboyant than anywhere else. After about 45mins of wandering around inside we escaped outside into the warm morning. Just exploring the streets was nice, we didn't realise earlier but Il Palio the famous horse race around the piazza del campo was only on 2 days earlier! They were still cleaning the sand out this morning. So the city is still abuzz with revellers from the winning team, if that's the correct term. With their flags hung all around the city, and parades every few hours. It's quite an atmosphere.

Duomo, Siena
Inside, this is when it wasn't too packed!
The entire floor is marble and decorated like this, but mostly covered to protect
So enticing, but so steep!

One strange part we have found with the city is a lack of casual bars to have a drink. The centre is all shopping, mostly tourist junk or restaurants. Then you have basic cafés but nowhere for a beer or glass of wine. So wandering around for 30mins we give up and join the tourist hordes on the piazza del campo for a drink, which is only 5euro for a glass of wine so not too bad considering the view.

After and easy morning it was time for some lunch. We actually came across a place last night that looked good, and after some internet stalking it came up looking like a good choice. Arriving at around 1pm it was still fairly quiet. The entire trip we had planned to enjoy some Bistecca alla Fiorentina at some stage, as Rishi had made a version at home earlier this year and it was delicious.

It doesn't get much simpler, basically it's a good cut of t bone meat, which has to be lean, cooked rare, rested for around 15mins and seasoned only with olive oil and salt. Which leaves you with the remaining juices mixed with the olive and salt as the sauce on your plate.

The cut of meat they use is a particular breed called the Chianina, and they generally cut super thick to ensure it is really juicy, charged per kilo we had seen anywhere from 35-50euro

Pasta, Pici(hand rolled pasta) and tomato and garlic, and Ravioli with truffles and cream sauce
The steak!
Creative napkins?
Ristorante grotta di Santa Caterina di bagoga
Steak and Wine

Of course now that we are hungry seasoned Italian diners we had pasta entree, and the steak as main. The pasta was bought out, and was excellent as usual. But just as we start to eat they bring out the raw cut of meat to make sure you are happy with the size, and the entire restaurant turns around with wide open eyes looking at it, as it's a huge slab of meat!

The meat was amazing, the most divine piece of beef I've ever eaten, and I do like a good steak. The simple flavours and the tenderness of the almost blue meat espically around the bone was delicious. Washed down with a great bottle of Montalcino Sangiovese, which is a local wine region we will pass through tomorrow on the route!

It's always a risk going out for a decent meal in a city you are not familiar with, and already on this trip we have been slightly disappointed a few times. But the meal at "Ristorante grotta di Santa Caterina di bagoga" was fantastic, they had quoted us that the cut was around 1kg, which would be 50euros but they actually marked it down to 40euros on the bill which was a pleasant surprise.

With full bellies, there was only one thing we could do for the afternoon, find somewhere else to drink some more wine! The Italian government has setup a state funded Enoteca in Fortezza Medicea where they promote Italian wines. It was a little overpriced, but they had about 10 wines by the glass which is a great selection, the first guy was not super helpful, already feeling quite good after the delicious wine at lunch we went for the 2 most expensive ones known as "supertuscans" that got his attention!

Enoteca Italiana
Le tour and Vino

Really nice wines, which we enjoyed in their courtyard with free wifi, realising the Tour de France had started I logged into Rai sports which let us watch on my phone!

We had thought to consider sending back a few bottles until we checked the postage prices, 160euros for 6bottles!! So we may just have to stock the suitcase/bikebox up with the maximum duty free amounts in Rome.

So 3 fairly long hard days of riding left until we arrive in Rome, and we still can't believe how far we have come up until now, I think it won't actually feel real until we arrive in Rome!

 

 

Friday, July 4, 2014

Day 27- San Gimignano to Siena- 43km (of up)

Yesterday's arrival to San Gimignano was one of our latest yet! Getting in at 6pm means little time for exploring, and also, very little rest time. So this morning we decided to leave a bit later than usual and got up early before the tourists arrived to explore and enjoy the cool morning air. It's a really magical place when there is no one there. I'm really glad we got to experience it at its quietest.

7am, no tourists
Ben befriended some locals ;)

 

Views from the walls

 

All to ourselves

 

Just spectacular

We set out for Siena around 10am after a pretty good hotel breakfast. The views back to San Gimignano were very impressive and we couldn't stop pulling over to take more photos. It wasn't long before we left the road and headed for the dirt trails. After yesterday's 93km of serious hill time in the sun complete with a bout of heat exhaustion (headaches, vomiting, dizzy spells and general crapola feeling, oh joy!) and a wasp bite just below my left eye (which is now very swollen) I was not feeling in the best sorts. My legs just felt like jelly and nothing would work. I've had heat exhaustion before and it usually takes me a couple of days to get over, and that's with electrolytes, which I have been unable to find here, so fingers crossed I get over it quickly as we still have to get to ROME! ;) We took the trails for the first 10km of the day and it took us 1.5 hours! It was seriously hard work. Mega steep climbs combined with very unforgiving terrain....grass, rocks, roots, creek crossings, tracks dug up by tractors. I was really feeling the fatigue so we skipped to the road for the rest of the way to Monteriggioni, our lunch stop.

 

Leaving San Gimignano

 

The views back to the city

 

Dirt time
What goes down must go up......

 

Grassarama

 

And up we go

 

Creek crossings
The views were pretty amazing
He loves this tough stuff

 

Vineyards of Chianti

 

Monteriggioni in the distance

 

 

 

Nothing like a 12% climb before lunch

 

After lunch in tourist town (it just didn't feel real...more like a medieval theme park) we took a really great section of the VF. It also happened to be part of a MTB granfondo race. We have seen race signs up in a couple of sections of the VF and generally when they are signed as MTB trails they have been very rideable, so for us it means go! This part was really great. Nice shaded tracks and a hard packed surface. Still plenty of climbing, but also some ripping descents. VERY rocky but it was the sort of rocky where if you don't let off the brakes you won't make it over the rocks, so we just threw caution to the wind and went for it! It was my favourite section for the day :)

Rocks

 

Siena!!

 

Bikes on our verandah in Siena

The final ascent into Siena was a corker. Seriously steep. The roads here are crazy. The city spills over the sides of a hill and all the roads just go straight UP! No skirting around or hairpins here!! We are staying here two nights. Our final rest day before three more days of riding to get us to Rome, our final destination! We are trying not to think too much about the end. Even though it will bring an amazing feeling of accomplishment it will also be sad as it marks the end of a fantastic time together with the simplicity of just getting up and riding our bikes each day. I am determined to make each of those three days count and really enjoy it. We have just had an amazing picnic dinner on the verandah of our B&B which has a spectacular view of the city. A bottle of Chianti went down well :) tomorrow we are going to be tourists for the day and I am really looking forward to it.

 

Thursday, July 3, 2014

Day 26 - Lucca to San Gimignano- 93km (39degrees c!)

Tuscany!

Wow, What a day! We rolled out of Lucca looking forward to the Tuscan scenery. Although we had already spent most of yesterday in Tuscany, we hadn't hit the stereotypical Tuscan landscapes yet. Today we certainly got it. We had initially thought we would arrive by 3pm with time to explore the city and climb one of the towers, but we were in for a long hard day on the bikes.

Lucca Cathedral
Leaving Lucca

It was fairly easy going for the first 20k, mostly paved backroads some steep climbs in places but we got onto a good roll.

Quiet backroads
Climb time

Turning offroad we rode through some forrest and followed some mtb trails which were still marked from a race, after second breakfast and a double espresso we soon turned off into the vineyards and olive groves and the short steep climbs started.

Onto the gravel
K
Archeology students
Looking more Tuscan
Original Roman road, a little bit bumpy even on the mtb

It was really open now, luckily no wind but the sun was heating up. We had planned to take the trails most of today as the roads detour quite far around the route, but the trails cut through the landscape meaning sharp climbs and sharp descents.

Euro style mtb tracks
Lunch stop in San Minato
Beer, makes everything better
Extra free lunch
Climb up, descend down story of the day. The views are worth it
After a mix of offroad trails and quiet backroads we arrived in San Minato, a beautiful hilltop village but everything seemed to be closed. Not much going on for lunch, winding through the village we arrived in the centre and saw signs for beer. A boutique beer bar in the middle of Italy. Most restaurants seemed to open at 12:30 in 15 minutes so we decided to have a beer while we wait. After a refreshing German ale, we notice that the same beer bar specalises in gourmet pannios. 2 Brie + honey + truffle oil pannis and we are set for lunch, the lovely lady also gave us an extra snack of tomato, pecorino and truffles on baguettes. All this for 10euro, which we think as a special pilgrim price. For anyone traveling through San Minato it's definately worth a lunch stop.
This is where we turned off for 30k of gravel oven time
W
Still smiling
Tuscany
How can you not love this
Ok, now it's hot and my legs are burning!
Then you loo back and see this
20k to go and it's getting hotter
Home straight, only 6k to go
San Gmignano in the distance
Almost there

We had about 30k to Gambansi Terme but we were only averaging around 10kph and the heat was really setting in, I took at photo as it hit 38degrees on my garmin, it then topped 39 a few minutes later. The views all around were spectacular, it looked like a postcard. Struggling in the heat though we had to push on. Finally rolling into Gambansi terme we went straight for the nearest bar and grabbed two cold cokes and a big limone granita. Hiding out inside the locals gave us funny sideways glances, we must of looked a bit crazed dripping in sweat and probably looking sunburnt. Finally cooling down enough we rolled on, the last leg of 14k would be mostly on backroads, as the trail would be too steep. It was a mostly downhill to start for around 5k, but we could now see San Gimignano in the distance way up on the hills now, so that defiantly meant more climbing. It was much cooler on the road though, and we had more tree cover than on the hill paths, taking the backroads we had some steep climbs, and we seemed to meander generally towards the destination. Quite a few tourists drove past, probably wondering who would want to ride out in these hills as they flew by in their rented audis. We even saw a group with a broken down Ferrari who didn't look too happy. Finally cresting the last climb we could see it was one more descent and then the climb up into town.

Arriving into town, I had plugged the address into google maps already and we found our way quite easily. Desparate for a shower now, but arriving at the location there was no sign of the hotel. Searching up and down the street with no luck, I did a full block of the town, realising now I was still In my helmet gloves and obviously kit. Bounding through the main square full of tourists I went into the tourist office to ask for help. Turns out the same street has the same number 7 a few hundred metres down where the numbers restart!

The town is beyond incredible, unfortunately we arrived late at almost 6pm, our latest yet. 6:30hr ride time today. Which is pretty hard going for 93k. We only have a short day tomorrow into Siena where we get our final rest day. So we are going out for a nice 3course meal tonight and a sleep in with breakfast in our hotel tomorrow.

 http://www.strava.com/activities/161257071